The battle
for K2
The wild mountain
In 2004, the team of the Spanish television programme Al Filo de lo Imposible, told Edurne that they were counting on her to lead their next challenge: K2. Also climber-called the "Wild Mountain", it is only a few metres lower than Everest, but much more compromised. That year K2 was celebrating the 50th anniversary of its first ascent, but it also had the sad circumstance that no woman of the six who had attempted it until the time was still alive to tell the tale.
Al Filo set up an expedition with great means and the best Himalayan climbers in the country. Once more, the opportunity was too attractive to let it go by, although Edurne was not entirely mentally ready to face one of the most dangerous peaks on the planet.
The K2 was a success, but the alpinist paid a very high price. The intense cold on summit day, the complicated last sections and the
Al Filo set up an expedition with great means and the best Himalayan climbers in the country. Once more, the opportunity was too attractive to let it go by, although Edurne was not entirely mentally ready to face one of the most dangerous peaks on the planet.
The K2 was a success, but the alpinist paid a very high price. The intense cold on summit day, the complicated last sections and the
time spent fixing ropes and opening a line ahead of all of the other expeditions on the mountain squeezed out every last drop of her energy. For an exhausted Edurne with her feet frozen, the descent became an extreme battle for survival. The adventure finished with a long, very painful recovery in hospital, and two toes amputated. Her companion Juanito Oiarzabal would lose all of his toes.

Rising from the ashes
Her traumatic experience made Edurne reconsider her future. She needed peace and time to consider the options, and even toyed with the idea of giving up mountaineering. She rested, travelled and continued with her studies. Even when she returned to Pakistan in 2005 and reached the summit of Nanga Parbat, she will still not clear about which way to go. "I sent out more applications for work on engineering projects", the alpinist recalls. "However, in the end I asked myself the key question: Would I be happy working as an engineer for the rest of my life? The answer was no."
Months later she went back to another eight-thousander, Shisha Pangma, but with a different attitude: accompanied only by intimate friends and with no media repercussion, and on the route she really wanted to climb - the beautiful British South face. The poor conditions prevented her from summiting, but it didn’t matter. She had recovered her motivation. "I have returned to the mountains", she wrote at the end of the trip.
Months later she went back to another eight-thousander, Shisha Pangma, but with a different attitude: accompanied only by intimate friends and with no media repercussion, and on the route she really wanted to climb - the beautiful British South face. The poor conditions prevented her from summiting, but it didn’t matter. She had recovered her motivation. "I have returned to the mountains", she wrote at the end of the trip.
Since then, Edurne has taken control of the ascents she has made, deciding what to do and where to go. The girl who only wanted to climb with her friends has become a true expedition leader. In the summer of 2007 she crowned Broad Peak. Once back, and while she was planning the following year, she decided that she really could and wanted to complete the challenge of climbing the 14 eight-thousanders and, if possible, to be the first woman to do it.






































