Expedition 4x8000
Lhotse
8.516 meters
Ranking: 4
Altitude: 8.516 m.
Location: 27º 58' 00'' N , 86º 56' E. Tibet, Nepal.
First ascent: On 18 May, Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss set out at nine in the morning after waiting an hour due to a fault in their oxygen masks, and after getting a spare they reached the pass with an inclination of 40° or 50° of excellent snow that led them to the summit ridge. After climbing a few metres over some rock towers, they reached the small, sharp summit at 2.45 on 18 May 1956.
Peak conquered by Edurne Pasaban on 26 May 2003.
Lhotse
The fourth highest peak in the world at 8,516 metres, it was Pasabán’s first challenge in 2003.
The Lhotse is E1 in the Indian cartographic service, as this mountain did not seem to have a local name in Tibetan or Nepalese, so in August 1921 on a reconnoitre of Everest made by Howard Bury, as he found no local name and as Lhotse was south of Everest and connected to it by its southern pass, he decided to give it the name of southern peak in Tibetan "Lhotse", and it is possible that this name has lasted as it is Tibetan.
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but its proximity to Everest meant that mountaineers ignored it at first, so all of the incursions on Lhotse, except for those of its southern face, were the result of explorations of Everest.
In 1956 a Swiss team reached Nepal to make the second ascent of Everest, but they also had permission to attempt Lhotse. This expedition led by Albert Eggler was made up of Wolfgang Diel, Hans Grimm, Hansrudolf Von Gunten, Eduard Leuthold the expedition doctor, Fritz Luchsinher, Jürg Marmet, Fritz Müller, Ernest Reiss, Adolf Reist and Ernst Schmied, and was also accompanied by 22 sherpas under the orders of sirdar Pasang Dawa Lama. The route was clear: to go up the Khumbu glacier to the south pass of Everest and to attack the mountain from there.
Camp VI was set up at some 8,000 metres above sea level, close to the Genevans’ summit, which they supplied with a fixed rope. On 18 May, Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss left this camp and set out at nine in the morning after waiting an hour due to a fault in the oxygen masks, and after getting a spare they reached the pass with an inclination of 40° or 50° of excellent snow that led them to the summit ridge. After climbing a few metres of on some rock towers, they reached the small, sharp summit at 2.45 on 18 May 1956, just 9 days before the Japanese had conquered Manaslu.
Just five days after conquering Lhotse this expedition put another two men on the summit of Everest and another two the next day. The expedition returned without a single incident, which was quite an achievement.
On 13 May 1994 Carlos Carsolio climbs Lhotse solo, setting up a world ascent speed record of 23 h 50 min from Base Camp to the summit. Carlos thus becomes the fourth person in the world to complete “The five greats” and the youngest.
Today, Lhotse has five routes on its south face and just one on the west.
The Lhotse is E1 in the Indian cartographic service, as this mountain did not seem to have a local name in Tibetan or Nepalese, so in August 1921 on a reconnoitre of Everest made by Howard Bury, as he found no local name and as Lhotse was south of Everest and connected to it by its southern pass, he decided to give it the name of southern peak in Tibetan "Lhotse", and it is possible that this name has lasted as it is Tibetan.
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world, but its proximity to Everest meant that mountaineers ignored it at first, so all of the incursions on Lhotse, except for those of its southern face, were the result of explorations of Everest.
In 1956 a Swiss team reached Nepal to make the second ascent of Everest, but they also had permission to attempt Lhotse. This expedition led by Albert Eggler was made up of Wolfgang Diel, Hans Grimm, Hansrudolf Von Gunten, Eduard Leuthold the expedition doctor, Fritz Luchsinher, Jürg Marmet, Fritz Müller, Ernest Reiss, Adolf Reist and Ernst Schmied, and was also accompanied by 22 sherpas under the orders of sirdar Pasang Dawa Lama. The route was clear: to go up the Khumbu glacier to the south pass of Everest and to attack the mountain from there.
Camp VI was set up at some 8,000 metres above sea level, close to the Genevans’ summit, which they supplied with a fixed rope. On 18 May, Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss left this camp and set out at nine in the morning after waiting an hour due to a fault in the oxygen masks, and after getting a spare they reached the pass with an inclination of 40° or 50° of excellent snow that led them to the summit ridge. After climbing a few metres of on some rock towers, they reached the small, sharp summit at 2.45 on 18 May 1956, just 9 days before the Japanese had conquered Manaslu.
Just five days after conquering Lhotse this expedition put another two men on the summit of Everest and another two the next day. The expedition returned without a single incident, which was quite an achievement.
On 13 May 1994 Carlos Carsolio climbs Lhotse solo, setting up a world ascent speed record of 23 h 50 min from Base Camp to the summit. Carlos thus becomes the fourth person in the world to complete “The five greats” and the youngest.
Today, Lhotse has five routes on its south face and just one on the west.
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^Messages for Edurne
Ánimo Edurne, tu puedes con este reto y mucho más, estaremos siguiendo con ilusión tu ascensión.
Te estaremos apoyando y dando fuerzas desde Esp...
Te estaremos apoyando y dando fuerzas desde Esp...
Raul Gil
